It’s a 10:00am arrival at the Varanasi Junction…and a moving swath of humanity spits us out of the Marudhar Express. The Marudhar Express. It’s a grand name for a the train that, in reality, crawls the 782 kilometres of track from  Jaipur to Varanasi like a drunk on...

Delhi, India   From the immaculate Lodi Gardens to the stylish Connaught Circle, from the stately Humayun’s Tomb to the posh Diplomatic Enclave, Delhi has some lovely places. Paharganj refuses to be one of them. Our Coleman cooler on wheels, with over-ambitious pretenses of being a...

Delhi, India After a moderately bumpy yet cheap flight (thanks to Tony Fernandes & AirAsia) from Kuala Lumpur, the evening landing in Delhi, last capital of the British Raj, was silky smooth and civilised. Architecturally, Terminal 3 of the Indira Gandhi Airport was of gleaming steel...